New Zealand: A Caravan Experience
Written By: SUSANNE LOMATCH
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South South Island
Day 22-23
The south points on the SI are less scenic than we’d imagined, but there were a few
features in common with other south south islands we’d been to, like Big Island, Hawaii:
wind, sparse wind-sculpted trees, and open rolling terrain. "Southland" is also filled with
fertile valleys. We settled at the Riverton area, Longwood Lodge, a small family-run
caravan park with a friendly owner. With views of the ocean bay, we celebrated a special
anniversary dinner (our 20th wedding) and opened that magical bottle of Hunter’s
Mirumiru Reserve (Champagne) – the magic brought a double rainbow in the setting
sunlight and mist, and as darkness fell, sounds of local fireworks – completely
unexpected, and what we’d experienced almost two decades ago when we’d first met.
Dunedin
Day 23-25
The drive from Riverton to Dunedin was downright bland. Perhaps a broken record, but if
the wind and rain had not interfered, stops along the coastal beaches (especially at
Tautuku) looked appealing in clearer weather. Dunedin is the second largest city on the
SI. It is sprawling, and situated directly on the Pacific, though the centrum is located
inland several miles. We chose (as we usually do) to stay on the beach, at Dunedin
Holiday Park. Warmer sunnier weather emerged for us, and we decided to stay a couple
days to explore Dunedin’s long beaches, such as St. Kilda and St. Clair, and the
architecture and culture of the Dunedin centrum. Dunedin has some unique buildings,
including the town hall and railway station, the latter an architectural marvel. Though we
rarely spent time in NZ at outdoor cafés, here we had a couple drinks and finger food in
the afternoon sunlight. Once again we encountered what we dread about NZ: poor food
and even poorer service. This remained consistent on both the NI and SI, with the
exception of Auckland restaurants. There are a few theories sloshing around in our heads
on why this is so – and it has to do with a mixture of tax policy and (economic) culture,
with NZ still quite the socialist. But why the service in Dunedin was so much more
impolite (especially to Americans), we’ll never guess.
While in Dunedin, we didn’t miss a day trip to the Otago Peninsula, home of the Royal
Albatross Colony, Taiaroa Head Lighthouse, and some stunning scenery of rolling
farmland set against the Pacific.
Dunedin Photography.
Oamaru
Day 25-26
With only 3 days left until our flight out of Christchurch and NZ, we were pressed to get
on the road and make the long drive to Christchurch. Enroute there are a few waypoints
that are essential for sightseeing. The Boulders at Moeraki ("Moeraki Boulders") are
quite a curious geological feature. Huge and almost spherical, some sport geode-like
interiors and surface designs created by the concretion process of cemented mudstone,
exposed via coastal erosion. The boulders are concentrated on a short stretch of beach, a
freak natural phenomenon that had an alien feel.
Oamaru is not quite halfway between Dunedin and Christchurch. Noteworthy are the
well-preserved Victorian architecture and nature attractions (such as a daily promenade
of Blue Penguins near sunset). Serendipity also enabled us to experience the last day of
the annual Victorian Heritage Week, a cultural revival highlighted by the donning of
authentic Victorian attire and the cheering of racing Highwheelers (I enjoyed shooting
this Victorian bicycle race!). Oamaru also has a beautiful city garden, worth a long stroll;
the Oamaru Holiday Park was conveniently situated at one end of the park, with easy
access. We missed the Blue Penguin strut to hit the sack, intent on an early trip to Christchurch.
Just as we pulled out of the park in the morning, our caravan diesel literally
choked and died. We’d already endured all of the broken features (a few more broke
during our trip) of this vehicle, one that should have been retired from rental service! To
top off the injury, the rental company ("Adventure Vans") treated us incredibly poorly
when we called for road service, immediately blaming us for the engine failure (even
though we checked the oil and water regularly during the trip as required in the rental
agreement). Another inconvenience was having the failure occur on a national holiday
weekend in Christchurch, and on a Sunday at that. Eventually we were retrieved by the
Christchurch owner/manager himself, overloading his car with all of our luggage and
cases of wine. (The drive from Christchurch to Oamaru and back is approximately 6
hours.) The rental company refused to pay for lodging or give us a replacement vehicle
for two days, or even a refund of the days we were out, but the owner did lend us a car.
So beware and read reviews before renting a caravan – our advice is to go with a highly
rated company with a long history. And if you’re offered an older vehicle on pickup after
you’ve paid full price in advance – refuse it. Oamaru Photography.